Little Town
Natalia Jastrzab discovers the stories behind a quiet provincial town in Poland that holds the memories of some of the greatest atrocities ever committed against mankind.
There are so many trees, and very little traffic. People with wide smiles and crinkled eyes gossip at the marketplace as they buy fresh bread and fruit. Concrete-grey apartments blocks, with colourfully painted balconies, stand in the middle of sprawling meadows full of bright flowers. It’s the middle of spring, and the sky is a happy blue.
Located 60km from the old capital of Krakow, with a population of only 45 000, the Polish town of Oswiecim is a modest and quiet place. Although it hosts nearly a million visitors per year, few are there to see the town itself. Oswiecim is largely known by its German name of Auschwitz, and is the site of the largest Nazi extermination camp of WWII.
Even though I am here to visit relatives, there is no getting past the fact that 1.5 million people were killed here. The evidence lies all around you. The railroad tracks that transported thousands to their death still lie on the ground, stretching all the way to the horizon. The buildings of the concentration camp still stand, ugly brick shadows spread out over the grassy landscape. Even as I drive to the supermarket, I pass the barbed wire fence that still borders Auschwitz I and catch a glimpse of the infamous “Arbeit Macht Frei” gate, the dull metal of the words forming a distinct contrast to the pure blue sky behind it. Instead of going to the supermarket, I pull over and book in for a tour, absorbed by the eerie scene.
Visiting the camp itself is a humbling and life-changing experience; as you walk through, you are confronted with the ghosts of Auschwitz and the atrocities committed against them. Their voices whisper to you through the physical things they have left behind; suitcases, shoes, shaving brushes, photographs. There is even a glass case of human hair on display. For most visitors, it is by far the most thought-provoking part of their vacation.
After the tour, I walk back to town while the rest of my tour climbs back on the bus to drive back to Krakow. Very few stay behind to see what the rest of the town has to offer. Residents of Oswiecim are quick to remind you that they live in Oswiecim, not Auschwitz- and despite being a memorial to those who died, it is still a place where life goes on. I speak to Tomek, an elderly tour bus driver. “People often add a lot of mythology to the Auschwitz site,” Tomek says in his heavy accent. “They say oh, there is no sun, no birds, nothing grows there, and of course this is not true.”
Before the Second World War, Oswiecim was a thriving centre of Polish Jewish culture and a popular vacation spot for many people in Krakow; now, it continues to be an important local centre for trade and industry, and boasts many attractions for tourists to explore, such as a castle, beautiful churches and the Rynek (marketplace). Polish people have a warm, hospitable attitude towards strangers, and if you speak Polish- or at least attempt to- they will treat you like an old best friend.
“This tragedy happened in the middle of Europe, in a typical, quiet, Polish-Jewish town,” Tomek said. “As Primo Levy [a former prisoner of Auschwitz] said- it happened here and it can happen anywhere, it happened once and it can happen again. And this is the crucial message of this site, and something we need to take with us.”
“And of course,” he adds, giving me a beaming smile that stretches across his wrinkled, friendly face, “there is so much more to this town than just the concentration camp. The people of Oswiecim have so much life and love to give, and we are very happy to meet you.”
ADDITIONAL DISCUSSION
Natalia Jastrzab z3290391
Tutorial: Thursday 10-11am
Word count: 550
For my piece, I used Tom Wolfe’s The New Journalism to identify the appropriate styles and standards for the genre of “New Journalism”. There are few sources that tell you how to write creative non-fiction pieces, but Wolfe’s extracts pointed out some of the most important techniques, or “devices” used by journalists to create a short-story kind of ‘feel’ in their piece.
One of these devices identified by Wolfe that gave “the realistic novel its unique power”, is the use of scene-by-scene construction rather than retelling by historical narrative. I have done my best to compose various ‘scenes’ in my piece rather than just run through what can be found in the town of Oswiecim; the first scene is my original perceptions of the town, the second is my visit to the concentration camp, and the third is my conversation with Tomek. Each scene is characterised by different use of imagery, and in the third, realistic dialogue is used to involve the reader. As Wolfe says, “realistic dialogue… establishes and defines character more quickly and effectively than any other device.” I crafted Tomek’s dialogue so that you feel he is an elderly Polish gentleman with an accent, who is friendly towards strangers and proud of his town: “we are very happy to meet you.”
Wolfe identifies the third device as the “third-person point of view”, which gives the reader a feeling of “being inside the character’s mind and experiencing the emotional reality of the scene “. I chose to use the first-person point of view. Since a travel article is a recount of a personal experience, the majority of travel articles are written in first-person, with the exception of “how-to” guides such as the Lonely Planet series. I was careful to write in a way that drew the reader into the experience, such as using detailed descriptions: “The buildings of the concentration camp still stand, ugly brick shadows spread out over the grassy landscape.”
The fourth device is what Wolfe identifies as “recording… the entire pattern of behaviour and possessions through which people express their position in the world”. In my piece, I wanted to capture the importance of the Auschwitz site as a memorial to those who suffered at the hands of the Nazis, and I wanted to demonstrate how visiting the camp is a life-changing experience. However, I also wanted to focus on something that is often overlooked, and that is the beautiful town of Oswiecim and all the friendly, welcoming people that live happily there. In my piece, I tried to capture their desire for Oswiecim to be recognised as a town in itself, not just as the site of the largest concentration camp of WWII. I did this by recording some of the attitudes of the townspeople- “residents of Oswiecim are quick to remind you that they live in Oswiecim, not Auschwitz”- as well as some of their behaviours- “people gossip at the marketplace”- in order to give a full description of what Wolfe refers to as their “status life”. I believe that it is especially important in travel articles to try and examine the mentality of the local people in the place you are visiting, so that the reader can compare it to where they live and what they already know. I also wanted to take an original angle on the subject of Auschwitz, and try to examine the psychological implications on the townspeople who live so close to the site.
As my grandparents live in Oswiecim and I have visited a number of times, I did not have to do a lot of research on the town itself. My research was limited to accessing websites such as staypoland.com to obtain exact population numbers. I also adapted a quote I found on crakow-life.com about the “mythology” visitors add to the Auschwitz site, to include in my own article as something Tomek (a made-up tour bus driver) had said.
LIST OF REFERENCES
Wolfe, Tom, 1973 The New Journalism London: Picador, chapter 3
http://www.staypoland.com/about_oswiecim.htm
http://www.cracow-life.com/poland/auschwitz-oswiecim
Photos taken from www.worldofstock.com
